Recessed Cabinetry
Recessed (Built-In) cabinetry posses a unique challenge especially if have read the section on standalone cabinetry and how there's many options for exhausting hot air. There are far fewer options for recessed cabinetry but usually one of the following methods will work.
First Step is Free! Before diving head first into recessed cabinetry, the first step and best practice for any cabinet installation and doesn't cost anything is when planning to install a system in cabinetry is to consider natural airflow. Consider how the air will flow naturally in the cabinet and air should be able to flow freely between shelving and the components. Most likely and realistically will never meet manufacturer recommendations for component spacing but do your best, don't stack heat producing components on top of one another or if do, use a Component Unit between the components (4 Fan w/Cover is a good option). Also ensure that wiring is kept neat, no rat's nests... Also and a perfect segue to the considers and planning for the proper cooling and ventilation products to use!
A#1 Solution. Recessed cabinetry is usually something designed into building or remodeling plans and completed as part of new build or remodel. The best solution hands down for recessed cabinetry is to during construction plan to use ducting to vent the cabinet. Please refer to New Construction page for this.
Now the following will be for retrofitting applications.
Options for Venting Recessed Cabinetry. The challenge is unlike a standalone cabinet, recessed cabinetry has far fewer access points to the outside of the cabinet.
It should be noted that since there are countless types of recessed cabinetry, this is going to be about how the cabinet is designed and some of these options simply may not apply at all, the key will to be to figure out what works with the design of the cabinet seeking to cool.
Top. Sometimes recessed cabinets still have open tops so this is an option if the top is indeed, open. This may not mean the very top of the cabinet and may simply mean venting from a lower cabinet to a TV area within the cabinetry.
To Adjacent Cabinet. This is actually the most common way to vent recessed cabinetry since usually there are multiple cabinet bays within the cabinet system. Electronics may take up one or two of the bays but it is a very valid option to vent to parts of the cabinetry where there is not equipment. This actually makes venting very easy as it not as much about aesthetics as it is about functionality. The best product to use for this will be the HiFlo Lite Pro and more than one unit venting to more than one adjacent bay may be necessary.
Toe Kick. While you cannot feasibly exhaust out of the toe kick, you can use the toe kick to inject air into the cabinet. For this the Toe Kick Pro package is recommended.
Cabinetry Built Next to a Firebox. This is a pretty common situation where cabinets are built on one or both sides of a fireplace box. The fact is that for pre-fab fireplaces the boxes have quite a bit of empty space in them and it is perfectly acceptable to vent into that area as long as there is not a problem with local codes.
Temperature Controllers. While not every system requires automated control, cabinetry and especially cabinetry in areas where noise is a factor, variable speed control is an important feature as it keeps the fan speed as low as possible and only speeds up as the cabinet gets hotter. This means using the TC-ALT or ASC controllers. If using an inline duct fan then the EC fan and controller is the hands down favorite.
